35 min read | Travel, Travel Diary

What is Banff?

If you haven’t already seen Banff on Tik Tok or Instagram, Banff National Park is Canada’s first national park known for its awe-inspiring mountain peaks and unbelievably blue lakes. Banff National Park includes over 2,500 square miles of the great Canadian wilderness, including the Rockies and much of its mountainous terrain. The actual resort town of Banff is home to a variety of restaurants and shops and is surrounded by a myriad of picture-perfect mountain peaks and lakes. There are over 900 miles worth of hiking trails, over 2,000 campsites, and 3 ski resorts to enjoy!

How to Get There and How to Get Around:

The actual resort town where most accommodations and restaurants are, sits about an hour and a half west of Calgary. My partner and I flew direct from Newark (EWR) to Calgary (YYC), while our friend left from Philadelphia and had a stopover in Toronto. We rented an SUV for the duration of the trip, which included our stay in Banff, a day trip to the Columbia Icefield in Jasper National Park, and 2 full days in Calgary. Your easiest bet to getting to Banff is by renting a car, but there is also the Brewster Express, a coach bus that departs from the Calgary airport. Parking in Banff and other popular spots can be limited, so please be mindful of parking. It may be worth (and highly encouraged) to review Roam Transit, which is Banff’s public transportation system. There are also select shuttles that go between specific ski resorts, Lake Louise and Moraine Lake, the Banff Gondola and more. Much of the downtown area itself is walkable, and renting a bike can get you even farther.

My group wanted more flexibility with our schedules, especially since we were going to places other than Banff sites. We also liked the idea of being able to carry around extra food or changes of clothes, so it was nice having the car. It also meant we could visit spots early before the buses and shuttles arrived.

Where We Stayed:

We stayed at the Banff Beaver Cabins - Moose Cabin, which was about a block or two from the main Banff Avenue. I booked it through Airbnb, but you can also book directly through their website. The cabins were a perfect choice. We stayed in the Moose Cabin, which accommodates 4 people. It had 2 bedrooms, a full kitchen, dining table, and separate living room. It was nice to unwind in a full living room after a long day of either being on the road or enjoying long trails. It was also very handy to have a kitchen. We often packed our own lunch and snacks for our day trips.

When We Went:

Regardless of what time of the year you go to Banff, you will always be greeted by a beautiful view. However, we wanted to see some fall foliage and decided to go in late September. It was a perfect time to visit with cool, crisp mornings and comfortable afternoons.

While many families may not be around due to the school year, there will be plenty of leaf peepers at this time of year especially because of Larch Season. The larch tree is a deciduous conifer that turn into a vibrant gold in the autumn and they attract a lot of visitors during the season. Autumn comes fairly early in the Canadian Rockies, so expect colorful foliage in September and October, rather than October and November. While Banff is a great place to ski, a lot of other attractions and viewpoints may not be accessible during the Winter months due to road closures. Many roadways close between October thru the Spring, and sometimes even thru June due to ice and avalanche risk. It can start to snow as early as late September/early October in Banff and many of the lakes are still frozen over in the Springtime.

Our Type of Adventuring:

If you’re looking for a review of intense, difficult, and/or just long trails/hikes, then this post may not be for you, but if you are interested in hitting up some of the more popular spots at your own pace then I’ve got you covered. Overall, we visited at least 9 lakes and hit up many of the coveted spots.

Day 0 (Driving into Banff):

My boyfriend and I had arrived in Calgary earlier in the day and decided to explore a bit before we met back up with our friend who was arriving at the airport 4-5 hours after us. We were able to store our luggage at the airport for a fee and took an Uber to the Kensington area of Calgary. We got some poutine and browsed a few shops. When we finally met up with our friend, we had gotten the rental car and were off to grab dinner. We decided to grab dinner at bbq Chicken, a korean fried chicken plan by Crowfoot Corssing. That area had plenty of places to eat and was also conveniently located by a Safeway and Safeway Liquor, where we picked up some groceries and alcohol for our stay. By the time we checked into our Airbnb, it was already late into the evening.

Day 1 (Banff Town, Lake Minnewanka):

We kicked off our Banff trip visiting a few of the local lakes before stopping at Lake Minnewanka. Our first stop was Cascade Ponds where we enjoyed breakfast at one of their picnic tables. We then made our way to Johnson Lake and Two Jack Lake, taking in the views. When we were looping around the Lake Minnewanka Scenic Drive, we had to stop a few times for some passing mountain goats on the side of the road along with a few deer. Originally, I had intended to follow the trail along the Lake Minnewanka shore line to at least the Stewart Canyon Bridge, but we didn’t have much time since we had the Lake Minnewanka Boat Cruise at 12pm. The 60-minute classic cruise takes you out on Banff’s largest lake where a captain and guide explain the history of the lake, as well as geology of the area. It was a nice, quick little way to get some history on the area and be able to see the lake from a different perspective. At some point, they shut the boat engine off and you can take a minute to enjoy the lapping sounds of the lake.

For lunch, we originally had reservations at The Maple Leaf, but due to a kitchen issue they no longer could host us. The restaurant notified us and helped place a reservation at one of their sister restaurants. We ended up at Three Bears Brewing Co. and enjoyed lunch and some local beer flights. We walked off lunch by browsing a few shops and then headed over to the Cascade of Time Garden, eventually following the path along the Bow River to the Bow Falls Viewpoint. What we didn’t know was how many stairs there were going to be on the way to the Bow Falls Viewpoint. There are several benches along the path if you need to catch your breath. On the way back, we crossed at the Banff Pedestrian Bridge and then opted to get some Beavertails. For dinner, we sampled a few Japanese dishes at Shoku Izakaya.

Day 2: (Bike Rentals and the Banff Gondola):

We wanted to ride bikes on this trip, but it has been years since any of us have ridden one, so we wanted to take it easy riding it in/near the town. We rented 3 recreational bikes from Black Diamond Bike & SUP Rentals. From the bike rental shop, we rode along M. Norquay Rd to take photos with the Banff Town Sign. We then rode along the Vermillion Lakes Rd, a long stretch of road that parallels the three Vermilion Lakes. Watching the reeds sway in the wind with Mount Rundle and Sulphur Mountain in the background was a great way to start our morning. There are a few places to take a seat and enjoy the view. The road was fairly quiet when we first rode out, but by the time we rode back into town it was much busier. Avid cyclists can continue on Vermilion Lakes Road to the Legacy Trail and then connect to the Bow Valley Parkway. On our way back into town, we had some time left before we had to return the bikes, so we biked along the Bow River for a bit and people watched by the Banff Pedestrian Bridge.

For lunch, we sat around a sushi train at Sushi House Banff and devoured many plates of sushi. We hopped into our car and drove up the winding road to Mount Norquay Lookout. If you continue up the road, you’ll eventually end up at the Mt. Norquay ski resort. From the Lookout, you have a view of the Banff downtown and the Vermilion Lakes. We then headed over to the Hoodoos Viewpoint, which can be found along the Tunnel Mountain Trail. We heard elk calls in the distance and enjoyed watching groups of people raft down the river. Finally, we went to the Banff Gondola to go up Sulphur Mountain. Unfortunately, I was unable to grab reservations at the Sky Bistro at the top of the mountain, but I was still able to get timely tickets for sunset. The gondola takes you up 2,292 feet where you can stroll along the Sulphur Mountain Boardwalk. The sunset was spectacular and painted the sky vibrant pinks and oranges. We closed out the night by grabbing some Aardvark Pizza to bring back to the airbnb.

Expect to stay 1.5-2 hours at the top of the gondola. If you make reservations at the Sky Bistro, allot more time for when you book your descent times.

You certainly get an amazing 360 view from the top. The restaurants at the top of the summit were closed for the evening due to a private event. When we were walking around, we realized a couple’s wedding ceremony must have taken place earlier in the evening and they were having their reception downstairs.

Day 3 (Moraine Lake Attempt, Lake Louise, Emerald Lake):

Hoping to get to Moraine Lake by sunrise (and before the crowds), we left Banff town by at least 5:30am. After a few confusing drive-bys, we learned that the Moraine Lake parking lot was already full! I had read from other blogs that the Moraine Lake parking lot is quite small and gets full pretty early, but I was not expecting it to be closed by 6:30am on a weekday. Sunrise was at 7:30. We were especially confused since the highway wasn’t particularly busy, so we didn’t think many people were on the road. Opting to swap our schedules around, we headed towards Lake Louise to make the most of our morning. We were still early enough to get good seats at Lake Louise for sunrise. It was pretty beautiful watching the sun paint the mountain tops a fiery orange over the stillness of the serene lake. Photographers flock to both Moraine Lake and Lake Louise, so be sure to get a seat before they stake their claim, but be courteous of those around you (and those taking sunrise time lapses!). We were actually going to be back to Lake Louise the next day because we had reservations for the Fairmont Chateau Afternoon Tea, so we didn’t linger too long at the Lake itself this day. We ate breakfast in the car, had a quick nap, and then headed were on our way.

Mind you, since we visited in late September, sunrise was at a reasonable time. If you visit during the summer, sunrise will be much earlier. Lake Louise is still a 40-minute drive from Banff proper, so keep that in mind. Because of recent parking fiascos at Moraine Lake, Parks Canada has since limited personal vehicle access to Moraine Lake. Plan ahead and review the shuttles, public transit, and guided tours available.

Heading 45 minutes northwest of Lake Louise, we went to Takakkaw Falls. Takakkaw Falls is actually in Yoho National Park and means “magnificent” in Cree. From the parking lot, you follow an easy trail to the base of the waterfall. While the falls were a great view, I actually loved the opposing view. I think it may have been one of my favorite views of the entire trip. We packed our lunch and picnicked at one of the many tables that sat along the nearby stream. We then went to Natural Bridge for a quick stop. Here you see how rushing waters can carve into the natural rock. Not too far away, Emerald Lake was next. Like Lake Louise, Emerald Lake is also a vibrant turquoise. We didn’t stay too long and only lingered on the Emerald Lake Trail for.a bit. Originally, we were going to head over to Golden, another town in British Columbia, to visit the Golden Skybridge, a suspension bridge that spans above a canyon, but due to some road closures, we decided not to take the very long detour. We tried our luck at train spotting at Morant’s Curve instead. A group of other enthusiasts were sitting along the road also hoping for the passing of a train, as well as several tour groups that made quick stopovers at the spot. Of course, 5 min after we left, we spotted a train heading towards the curve. It wasn’t a long train, so it wasn’t worth going back. Regardless if there was a passing train or not, it was incredibly scenic and makes for a perfect computer background haha.

Day 4 (Lake Louise, Fairmont Chateau, Peyto Lake):

Lake Louise Day 2. We sat further away from the boathouse to get a different from of the surrounding peaks.

Trying again for Moraine Lake, we left our Airbnb even earlier, but the lot was already full! We were accepting defeat, sitting in the Lake Louise parking lot and it was only 5:06am. We had time before sunrise, so we napped in the car. We opted for a different viewing area this time, sitting along the rocks, rather than on the boardwalk the day prior. While some people dispersed and went back to their cars, many people started their mornings with a hike. We walked the Lake Louise Lakeshore Trail until we hit the mouth of the . Many people stopped at the end of the lake before heading back, but if you wanted to you could continue onto the Plain of Six Glaciers trail which eventually rewards you with the Plain of Six Glaciers Teahouse. There is an informational post and and ice fall hazard sign at the end of the lake before traversing onto the Plain of Six Glaciers. This was our turn around point.

Back at the Fairmont end of the lake, my boyfriend and friend rented a canoe at the Lake Louise Boathouse, while I stayed ashore. The Boathouse opened at 10:30am, and before you know it the turquoise waters are then dotted with bright orange canoes. Sat in front of picturesque arched windows, we then enjoyed Afternoon Tea at the Fairview Bar & Restaurant, located in the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise. It was pretty expensive, at $75 USD per person. It included delicious scones and spreads, varying finger sandwiches (from lobster saffron to wagyu beef, and an assortment of sweets including macarons, chestnut pralines, and choux pastries. I’m not picky with food, so I was able to enjoy everything. There is also a vegetarian or vegan menu for the afternoon tea. Note that Afternoon Tea reservations are open to registered hotel guests and day visitors. You will need to make a reservation in advance.

Everyone was able to enjoy their tea of choice. I selected an earl grey. We also enjoyed a glass of prosecco.

We then had our first taste of the beautiful views of the Icefields Parkway. The Icefields Parkway is known to be one of the most scenic drives in the world (Top 10 by Conde Nast Traveler). We stopped first at Bow Lake, one of many lakes that sit along the Icefields Parkway, where we followed a short path along the shore. This was a very calm lake, where we were able to skip rocks and have some photo ops on a quaint bridge. The shoreline trail continues where you will eventually meet Bow Glacier Falls. but we didn’t venture past the bridge. We then went to Peyto Lake. Peyto Lake is a glacier-fed waterway in a valley and is most known for its vibrant turquoise color and for being in the shape of what looks to be a dog or wolf. If you are able, park at the ending parking lot, that will bring you closer to the Upper Viewpoint area.

We then headed back in the direction of Banff and had some time to do the trail to the Lower Falls at Johnston Canyon. The road to Johnston Canyon was actually the same route as Morants Curve, the train-spotting area we visited the day before, so I think with some better planning we could have grouped it together. The trail leads you up and down elevated, iron catwalks that perch along the canyon, surrounding you with limestone cliffs. At the end of the Lower Falls, you are greeted by a roaring waterfall and you’ll be close enough to feel the mist. When we went, there were others on the trail but it certainly wasn’t busy. I’ve seen photos of the trail and I can say it’s probably not that enjoyable when it’s crowded. The path is fairly narrow and you’ll definitely have to wait your turn to sneak into the cave to get a closer look at the falls. While the Lower Falls is rated as an easy trail and only takes about an hour roundtrip, probably due to it being paved and/or on a catwalk of sorts, it can get steep in some areas. When we visited, the trail to the Upper Falls and the Ink Pots were closed. Back in Banff, we finished off the night (and our main Banff stay) at Saltlik, an upscale steakhouse (they have a location in Calgary too!).

I had originally planned for this trip, while I was sitting at home during the pandemic. Eager to get out and explore, but still nervous to go too far, I was hopeful for this trip to Banff, Canada. I was certainly not disappointed. The views were beautiful and visiting in late September was a good move. I highly recommend it.

(BONUS) Day 5: Columbia Icefield Adventure and Skywalk

I am including a bonus day 5, although this wasn’t part of Banff National Park. We checked out of our Airbnb this morning and found ourselves back on the Icefields Parkway, on our way to the Jasper National Park Icefield Information Center. The drive from Banff to Jasper National Park is breathtaking. Whether you’re looking ahead or in the rear or side mirrors, you’re going to have a great view. I recommend incorporating a few stops along the highway, including the Big Bend, for some great photo ops. The road in the morning was fairly clear, but was definitely much busier in the afternoon. We had tickets for the Columbia Icefield Adventure, which includes the Ice Explorer Tour on the Athabasca Glacier and admission to the skywalk. The Icefield Adventure takes you on an Ice Explorer, an all-terrain vehicle that drives over the Athabasca Glacier, a 10,000 year old sheet of ice. I had the opportunity o drink some glacial water. You are shuttled onto a normal bus and taken to the glass-floored Skywalk, a suspended glass platform that soars 918 feet above the natural terrain. The guide in the all-terrain vehicle, as well as the normal bus were both funny and informative as you learn about the local mountains and glaciers.

We had packed lunch and ate at the Information Center parking lot. There are a few picnic tables for your use, but they get filled pretty quickly. We were already back on the road by 2:30pm, retracing our steps on the Icefields Parkway. We stopped in Canmore for a bathroom and stretching break. We parked in a residential area and walked along the Spur Line Trail to the Canmore Engine Bridge. If we had more time, we would have also done the Policeman Creek Trail and explored some of their shops. From Canmore, it took us a little over an hour to get to our airbnb in Calgary, near the BMO Centre.

Tips:

Pack in, Pack Out. Leave No Trace.
Use AllTrails to figure out what trails you want to do!
There were always bathrooms available. I was very impressed by the facilities. I mean, they were still a public facility in a National Park, so don’t expect anything fancy, but they were almost at every location we went to. There were also toilet paper available at all spots, but I would bring your own hand sanitizer, if they do not have any available.
The driving speed limit is slow in Banff! I’m used to everyone speeding in New Jersey, so please pay attention to the road signs.
Pack Layers.
Winter comes early in Banff and the park does not thaw out until the late spring. Because of this, many roads can be closed starting in October thru June due to snow and avalanche risk.
If you are going during the busy season (and even if you aren’t), I would make restaurant reservations when possible.